Safety · 10 min
Pressure is the leak test. Vacuum is the moisture test. Do not skip nitrogen and hope the micron gauge will confess.
Nitrogen only. Never oxygen, never shop air — oil + air + pressure is a diesel event.
Do not exceed the nameplate or OEM test pressure. A ‘300 psi because that is what the regulator will do’ is how you split a coil.
Wear eye protection. A blown hose at 150 psi is a missile.
A2L: check the area for ignition sources before you open anything that might still hold refrigerant.
Tools: Nitrogen cylinder and regulator · Known-good gauges or a dedicated test port · Bubble solution / electronic leak detector rated for the refrigerant family · Core tools
Recover first if the system had charge. Core tools on. Both indoor and outdoor in the test. Isolate the nitrogen bottle so a regulator failure cannot keep feeding the coil.
Expect: No refrigerant. Valves open to the lines you mean to test.
If not: A closed service valve tests six inches of pipe and lies about the coil.
Raise nitrogen to the OEM standing-test pressure (field class is often ~150 psig on comfort splits — the I/O / nameplate is law). Write pressure, outdoor temp, and time. Wait. A 2–3 psig drop that matches a big temperature drop can be physics. A steady fall at a stable temp is a leak.
Expect: Pressure holds after the temperature correction.
If not: Soap every new joint, schrader, gasket, and the indoor coil. Electronic detector on A2L after you add the OEM-allowed tracer — or find it on nitrogen bubbles first.
Do not dump a 150 psi shot into a vacuum pump. Bleed most of the nitrogen, then pull the vacuum how-to. A2L new lines: this standing test plus the inert purge is the required discipline, not extra credit.
Expect: Safe residual pressure, then a deep vacuum and a decay.
If not: If it will not hold nitrogen it will not hold refrigerant. Repair before you weigh in.